The Georgian Ring
&
The Memorial Ring
The Georgian ring was produced during the reign of Kings George I-IV and (lastly) William the IV. Rings during this period, 1714 - 1830 (sometimes considered up to 1837), often reflected the changing times through the variety of their shapes, styles, and use of gemstones. Georgian era rings were most often produced using 18k gold (75% pure gold alloyed with either copper, silver, nickel, or a mixture of these metals). In some cases rings were also produced using silver, but not many of these rings survived in good condition. Gemstones from this era (including diamonds) were set using silver, and the part of the setting that came into contact with the skin was usually backed with gold.
The style of the Georgian ring is most often characterized by Greek inspired designs. Many of these antique wedding bands were very delicately shaped with intricate metal work designs including acorns, doves, flowers, leaves, scrolls, and wheat stalks. Swirls and lace designs in the metals were common in many rings, as were plain gold bands which featured clusters of gemstones or diamonds. Before the 1750’s all pieces were created with hand-hammered alloys which gave metal rings from this time a speckled or sometimes rough pitted look. After the 1750's, machines were invented to cut out the hard work needed to create alloys by hand and a rolling machine was used to create more uniform streamlined metal rings.
As diamonds were very rare during this time, a Georgian antique wedding ring set with a diamond is a rare find, and if diamonds are in the ring they are small and cut using traditional rose cuts or table cuts; diamond rings from this period featured clusters of these smaller diamonds. Rose cut diamonds in Georgian wedding rings or engagement rings often had a light piece of reflective foil beneath the diamond to increase brilliance (as did other gemstones set in rings from this era), but in many cases the foil has worn away or has lost its reflective qualities; some antique jewelry companies will restore the foil, although the foil restoration requires special care. Instead of diamonds, many rings in the Georgian era were made with materials which included royal blue glass, rock crystal, and marcasite (an iron sulfide mineral which is somewhat brittle). Popular gemstones of this era were also used in rings including emeralds, rubies, sapphires, garnet, and black onyx. Additional materials such as coral, mother of pearl, and shell were also frequently used in rings. Some rings which used glass paste as an affordable gemstone imitation have survived in fair condition as well. The Georgian era was characterized by a need to preserve memories and the times of the day. As a result, distinct Georgian rings such as the memorial ring, the locket ring, and the poesy ring were created. The memorial ring, also known as a mourning ring, was created to preserve the memory of a loved one and included rings with a small portrait, or initials carved into the ring, or sometimes hair from the loved one woven into the back of the ring or preserved on the front of the ring. Locket rings were also created to hold the hair of a loved one. While these rings were not intended to be used as wedding rings, today they are sometimes purchased as unique wedding rings which symbolize the remembrance of eternal love. The Georgian poesy ring was a betrothal or wedding ring which was usually crafted out of a plain gold band engraved with Old English love sayings - for example "I Love My Choyce". Another unique type of Georgian ring was the iron cast ring. These rings were copies of gold rings which the wealthy turned in to support the war effort of that time. Once they turned in their ring a copy was made using cast iron, and the rings were often engraved with "Gold gab ich fur Eisen" which means "I gave gold for iron." If you are interested in an antique Georgian ring, you will need to find a specialized dealer which has experience with rings from this era. Keep in mind that Georgian rings in good condition are somewhat rare, and most rings from the Georgian time period are priced in the thousands of dollars range. Some plainer style bands decorated with royal blue glass may be found in the $1000 - $2000 dollar range, but most Georgian rings are priced over $3,000. To be sure you are looking at an authentic ring, only deal with a company or private dealer which has a verifiable reputation. In addition, keep in mind the facts about Georgian rings such as the metal used in that time (18K gold with silver settings), gemstones (diamonds were somewhat rare), and the styles that were popular during this era.
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